Apology, Skiing, drinks and live music
So, before I go onto post-Christmas activities, there is one anecdote that I forgot in my last couple posts. Upon seeing the wintergreen candy canes my mom had sent over, Yugo said, with a somewhat ungrateful tone, something to the effect of “Why did she such a weird looking thing?” I said nothing in response and simply thought to myself, “Weird? Those things are freakin’ delicious, kid.” I didn’t think much else, and simply figured he hadn’t seen a candy cane before. I went upstairs to continue cleaning my room. I took a break to look at the old photo album I brought along. And while in a happy little wave of nostalgia, my door slides open a bit and Yugo pops his head in a bit, but then closes the door. A minute or two later he does it again, at which point I tell him it is all right to come in. But he doesn’t. At which point I figured something was up. So I open the door and he is just sitting there with a dejected look on his face. Normally if he is feeling that bad he is bawling his head off for his mom or something. I ask him what is wrong multiple times and he won’t say a thing, so I just sit there with him. After quite awhile, I decide candy might make him feel better, so I offer him some…yet he doesn’t take anything. Yugo not eating candy I offer him…is the apocalypse coming?! Anyway, after I eat a few pieces of candy, Yugo has a few, but still won’t say anything. Finally, his mom comes up and asks if he properly apologized. To which I respond that he hasn’t said anything at all, and wonder what the heck he is supposed to be apologizing for. Well, apparently my host mom also heard Yugo’s comment about the candy canes and felt really bad about Yugo saying anything even close to disparaging about the stuff that was sent over. So she sat down with Yugo and explained again to Yugo why he shouldn’t have said what he did and demanded he apologize. Well first he bawls into tears, and after awhile finally manages a half crying/half wailing “GO-MEN-NA-SAI!!!” He was quite better once he got that out, and quickly realized why he had been so silent. It was kind of cute (yes, though I despise the word cute, my diminishing English vocabulary leaves me no choice…) since I could tell he felt so bad about possibly making me feel bad. He may be a whiny brat at times, but deep down he’s a good kid.
Now, onto the next big event, Nagano. So apparently, my host mom’s side of the family has been going to the same inn in Hakuba, Nagano Prefecture around New Year’s for the past 30 years or so. So what I initially thought was a random ski trip ended up being a rather deep tradition. I hadn’t been skiing before, and since Nagano Prefecture hosted the 1998 Olympics, I had visions of extremely difficult hills, broken limbs, amputations, what have you. We were worried for a bit, though, as the complete lack of snowfall threatened our trip. The forecast called for big snow, but even the day before we left, nothing substantial had accumulated. Luckily, Hakuba got absolutely dumped on the night before we left. We left early on the 29th and after a 5 hour drive, we finally pulled into the inn. After dropping our stuff off, we rented some equipment. Meanwhile, the grandma had Tayusuke on the back in a sling sort of thing. He was bundled up ten times over, but with it snowed hard and the wind not helping matters, he seemed to have a look of “Where is this place, and why did you bring me here?!” We got outfitted and hit the slopes. I fell. A lot. The first attempt landed me in a fluffy bank of snow so deep, I couldn’t get up by myself. After Chi-chan (the aunt) helped me out, we continued on. After getting my balance down, I tried turning, which proved futile until she taught me to turn using what I’ve been told is called the “snowplow” position (both skis pointed inward). Turning immediately made sense. The second day I got stopping down competently and even managed to make it all the way down the mountain (it takes a good 10 min, or more if you’re a beginner like me) without landing on my keister, so I was pleased with my progress. Up until noon on the second day, only the shorter three slopes from the top of the mountain were open, but then they finally got all the prep done and opened the path that goes all the way down. I managed to get that in twice before the end of the day. The first day you couldn’t see a thing due to the clouds and the blowing snow, but the second day cleared up and revealed some breathtaking scenery. Mountains practically surrounded us, aside from the one vista overlooking the town. (Beyond the town were…yup, you guessed it, more mountains) Definitely not the kind of terrain you see in Wisconsin, and the whole experience was rather surreal. During our breaks from skiing, we went to the same restaurant for lunch both days, and it was really delicious. Nothing super fancy, just pizza, pasta, fries, chicken, some Japanese dishes, an appetizer plate of meat and cheese, but it was all done really, really well (and reasonably priced to boot!). The freshly fallen snow lead to impromptu snowman making, which then devolved into a snowball fight. I haven’t had a proper one of those in a long time. Next winter in Madtown, massive snowfight! I won’t settle for less. I also taught Yugo and Chi-chan how to make snow angels, so that was fun. When I first arrived here, when bathtime came around, Yugo would occasionally say “I want to get in with Collin!” After both his mom and I told him no multiple times, he pretty much stopped asking. But the bath at the inn was public, and Yugo’s dad wasn’t able to come on the trip, so he again wanted to go in the bath with me. He went in early with his mom to the ladies’ bath, so I thought I was in the clear, but once I decided to go in later, he continued his supplications with renewed vigor, so I caved. I pretty much knew why he wanted to go in the bath together, and my hunch was corroborated almost immediately. Upon entering the bath he quickly ran around to my front to see just how I was “different” from him. Yugo ended up not entering the actually bath after all, since the water was too hot. And I can’t blame him. Upon entering, I felt like my skin was on fire for the first 15 seconds or so until my body adjusted. That is one thing about the Japan, the bath water, or the water in onsen (natural hot springs) is often insanely hot. One onsen in particular in a place called jigokudani (Hell’s Valley) has water at a (what I think to be a dangerously) hot 192 degrees Fahrenheit. The locals boils eggs while they themselves steep in the piping hot water. At this point I’d like to quote my friend Nick’s reaction to this fact. “If the water is doing that[cooking] to the proteins in the eggs, just think of what it is doing to the proteins in your body.” It’s crazy what sort of immunities the human body can acquire.
The second night in Nagano was nothing short of amazing. I went with Miki(host mom) and Chi-chan (her sister) to an old Meiji-era building (approx. 130years old) that now functions as a private inn. Apparently they also just take in customers for drinks and food, but there was only one table and we were the only ones there who were staying overnight. The rest of the people there were all family it seemed, so we sort of felt like we were intruding. We had some sake, gyouza (dumplings) and cow intestine (yum!) for a light snack. The group staying overnight was across the room from us cooking in a more traditional fashion. There is a wood border for setting cups and plates on, but then the inside is set into the floor and has a bunch of old ash covering it. Hot wood coals are brought in and set down almost in an almost campfire-like fashion. From there you can hang a pot above the coals to make soup, etc. or cook fish on stick (much like we do with hot dogs or marshmallows). The only difference is this is all indoors. We decided we had intruded long enough, and started to leave, but one of the guys across the room said he was going to start playing his guitar and sing, and that we should stick around to listen. After politely refusing once (as it almost always customary) we accepted after he insisted. And boy am I glad we stuck around. They brought out tea for everyone (on the house) and we sat back and enjoyed. It is a bit surreal to listen to some bandana-wearing 40 year old Japanese guy sing some love song in Spanish while sitting around in a 130 year Japanese house. Even more than that, I joined in and helped him out on Yesterday by the Beatles. Memories of the time I sang that song in a quartet for solo/ensemble senior year in high school came flooding back. We all made up crazy motions right before the performance, which ended making all of us laugh during the performance. Good times, eh Busha? Anyway, this guy on the guitar was extremely charismatic, and one of the best emcees I’ve seen. He kept everyone captivated. After his show, we decided to head up to the second floor, which functions as a bit of a museum. We checked out the art and then sat down on floor pillows and just began to talk. I knew I was in for a long but fun night when one guy brought up a HUGE bottle of sake. I had to be careful not to drink mine too quickly, because everyone was only too eager to fill my cup back up. I can’t even remember all what we talked about, but one guy in particular absolutely loves American football. He seriously thinks it is the best thing since sliced bread. I told him I liked football well enough, and so he starts asking me who is on top this year. Considering I haven’t seen a single minute of NFL broadcast this year, and haven’t bothered to look up standings on the internet, I did my best to bullshit my way through a sports conversation about which I knew nothing.
Dude: So who’s good this year?
Me: Umm…the Colts? Yeah, yeah, the colts. They’re good.
Dude: How are the Patriots doing?
Me: Uh…good. Yeah, they’re doing good, too. (Desperately trying to switch to something I have a bit of knowledge about.) The team near my hometown won the Super Bowl ten years ago, but they’re aren’t doing too well now.
Dude: What team?
Me: Green Bay Packers
Dude: Oh yeah! The Packers! I know them! Not only did the guy know the Packers he seemed to act as if they were his old friend. Needless to say I was more than surprised at his detailed knowledge of the NFL. Everyone was pretty well drunk, or at least tipsy, to the point where the conversation was loud and raucous and the one guy was spilling the sake as he tried to pour others’ glasses. When I posed for a picture with two of the guys, they insisted I go in the middle of them, and then they both put their arm around me. So I do the same. I am quite sure this kind of physical contact does not happen in Japan while sober. Nothing like making friends over countless hours of conversation and a massive bottle of sake.
Now, onto the next big event, Nagano. So apparently, my host mom’s side of the family has been going to the same inn in Hakuba, Nagano Prefecture around New Year’s for the past 30 years or so. So what I initially thought was a random ski trip ended up being a rather deep tradition. I hadn’t been skiing before, and since Nagano Prefecture hosted the 1998 Olympics, I had visions of extremely difficult hills, broken limbs, amputations, what have you. We were worried for a bit, though, as the complete lack of snowfall threatened our trip. The forecast called for big snow, but even the day before we left, nothing substantial had accumulated. Luckily, Hakuba got absolutely dumped on the night before we left. We left early on the 29th and after a 5 hour drive, we finally pulled into the inn. After dropping our stuff off, we rented some equipment. Meanwhile, the grandma had Tayusuke on the back in a sling sort of thing. He was bundled up ten times over, but with it snowed hard and the wind not helping matters, he seemed to have a look of “Where is this place, and why did you bring me here?!” We got outfitted and hit the slopes. I fell. A lot. The first attempt landed me in a fluffy bank of snow so deep, I couldn’t get up by myself. After Chi-chan (the aunt) helped me out, we continued on. After getting my balance down, I tried turning, which proved futile until she taught me to turn using what I’ve been told is called the “snowplow” position (both skis pointed inward). Turning immediately made sense. The second day I got stopping down competently and even managed to make it all the way down the mountain (it takes a good 10 min, or more if you’re a beginner like me) without landing on my keister, so I was pleased with my progress. Up until noon on the second day, only the shorter three slopes from the top of the mountain were open, but then they finally got all the prep done and opened the path that goes all the way down. I managed to get that in twice before the end of the day. The first day you couldn’t see a thing due to the clouds and the blowing snow, but the second day cleared up and revealed some breathtaking scenery. Mountains practically surrounded us, aside from the one vista overlooking the town. (Beyond the town were…yup, you guessed it, more mountains) Definitely not the kind of terrain you see in Wisconsin, and the whole experience was rather surreal. During our breaks from skiing, we went to the same restaurant for lunch both days, and it was really delicious. Nothing super fancy, just pizza, pasta, fries, chicken, some Japanese dishes, an appetizer plate of meat and cheese, but it was all done really, really well (and reasonably priced to boot!). The freshly fallen snow lead to impromptu snowman making, which then devolved into a snowball fight. I haven’t had a proper one of those in a long time. Next winter in Madtown, massive snowfight! I won’t settle for less. I also taught Yugo and Chi-chan how to make snow angels, so that was fun. When I first arrived here, when bathtime came around, Yugo would occasionally say “I want to get in with Collin!” After both his mom and I told him no multiple times, he pretty much stopped asking. But the bath at the inn was public, and Yugo’s dad wasn’t able to come on the trip, so he again wanted to go in the bath with me. He went in early with his mom to the ladies’ bath, so I thought I was in the clear, but once I decided to go in later, he continued his supplications with renewed vigor, so I caved. I pretty much knew why he wanted to go in the bath together, and my hunch was corroborated almost immediately. Upon entering the bath he quickly ran around to my front to see just how I was “different” from him. Yugo ended up not entering the actually bath after all, since the water was too hot. And I can’t blame him. Upon entering, I felt like my skin was on fire for the first 15 seconds or so until my body adjusted. That is one thing about the Japan, the bath water, or the water in onsen (natural hot springs) is often insanely hot. One onsen in particular in a place called jigokudani (Hell’s Valley) has water at a (what I think to be a dangerously) hot 192 degrees Fahrenheit. The locals boils eggs while they themselves steep in the piping hot water. At this point I’d like to quote my friend Nick’s reaction to this fact. “If the water is doing that[cooking] to the proteins in the eggs, just think of what it is doing to the proteins in your body.” It’s crazy what sort of immunities the human body can acquire.
The second night in Nagano was nothing short of amazing. I went with Miki(host mom) and Chi-chan (her sister) to an old Meiji-era building (approx. 130years old) that now functions as a private inn. Apparently they also just take in customers for drinks and food, but there was only one table and we were the only ones there who were staying overnight. The rest of the people there were all family it seemed, so we sort of felt like we were intruding. We had some sake, gyouza (dumplings) and cow intestine (yum!) for a light snack. The group staying overnight was across the room from us cooking in a more traditional fashion. There is a wood border for setting cups and plates on, but then the inside is set into the floor and has a bunch of old ash covering it. Hot wood coals are brought in and set down almost in an almost campfire-like fashion. From there you can hang a pot above the coals to make soup, etc. or cook fish on stick (much like we do with hot dogs or marshmallows). The only difference is this is all indoors. We decided we had intruded long enough, and started to leave, but one of the guys across the room said he was going to start playing his guitar and sing, and that we should stick around to listen. After politely refusing once (as it almost always customary) we accepted after he insisted. And boy am I glad we stuck around. They brought out tea for everyone (on the house) and we sat back and enjoyed. It is a bit surreal to listen to some bandana-wearing 40 year old Japanese guy sing some love song in Spanish while sitting around in a 130 year Japanese house. Even more than that, I joined in and helped him out on Yesterday by the Beatles. Memories of the time I sang that song in a quartet for solo/ensemble senior year in high school came flooding back. We all made up crazy motions right before the performance, which ended making all of us laugh during the performance. Good times, eh Busha? Anyway, this guy on the guitar was extremely charismatic, and one of the best emcees I’ve seen. He kept everyone captivated. After his show, we decided to head up to the second floor, which functions as a bit of a museum. We checked out the art and then sat down on floor pillows and just began to talk. I knew I was in for a long but fun night when one guy brought up a HUGE bottle of sake. I had to be careful not to drink mine too quickly, because everyone was only too eager to fill my cup back up. I can’t even remember all what we talked about, but one guy in particular absolutely loves American football. He seriously thinks it is the best thing since sliced bread. I told him I liked football well enough, and so he starts asking me who is on top this year. Considering I haven’t seen a single minute of NFL broadcast this year, and haven’t bothered to look up standings on the internet, I did my best to bullshit my way through a sports conversation about which I knew nothing.
Dude: So who’s good this year?
Me: Umm…the Colts? Yeah, yeah, the colts. They’re good.
Dude: How are the Patriots doing?
Me: Uh…good. Yeah, they’re doing good, too. (Desperately trying to switch to something I have a bit of knowledge about.) The team near my hometown won the Super Bowl ten years ago, but they’re aren’t doing too well now.
Dude: What team?
Me: Green Bay Packers
Dude: Oh yeah! The Packers! I know them! Not only did the guy know the Packers he seemed to act as if they were his old friend. Needless to say I was more than surprised at his detailed knowledge of the NFL. Everyone was pretty well drunk, or at least tipsy, to the point where the conversation was loud and raucous and the one guy was spilling the sake as he tried to pour others’ glasses. When I posed for a picture with two of the guys, they insisted I go in the middle of them, and then they both put their arm around me. So I do the same. I am quite sure this kind of physical contact does not happen in Japan while sober. Nothing like making friends over countless hours of conversation and a massive bottle of sake.
posted by Collin at 9:45 PM
2 Comments:
1) Amazing post. Looking forward to next one as mentioned in title.
2) Great ass times.
3) You made a tiny kid cry. WITHOUT EVEN DOING ANYTHING. You're still Collin.
4) Well done. Still proud.
-Busha
Collin will drink in Japan but not with us? What's up with that? Haha, sounds like you are having a good time man, though I admit that Madison just isn't the same without you. (The last time I was there, I overheard Stephen crying into his pillow about how much he missed you. True story.)
~Rage
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